Balineum founder Sarah Watson holidayed in Denmark over the summer and now we all want to go. Given how short the flight is from London — and how affordable tickets are this time of year — it’s an easy long weekend for anyone in need of a mini-break. Don’t be dissuaded by the turn in the weather. Copenhagen takes on a whole new personality in autumn as the temperature cools and the daylight hours rapidly diminish. It's the perfect time of year to embrace the Danish concept of hygge while taking in the city’s thriving food and design scenes.
Sarah stayed at the design-forward Hotel SP34 on Sankt Peders Straede and would certainly recommend it. Others to consider include the new 1 Hotel Copenhagen, which opened in August and champions sustainability, and the Hotel Sanders, which has an eclectic, residential feel. These are all located in the city centre for an easy homebase from which to explore the sights. Wherever you choose, Copenhagen is very much walkable and bike rentals are abundant. Here, we’ve devised a three day itinerary filled with things for you to pick and choose from. Museums are generally open until 5pm during the fall/winter season, and shops until 6pm, but hours and days do vary so be sure to check ahead. Things tend to be open later in the summer when the days are longer.
Day 1: City Centre (North)
Depending on whether you're a traditionalist or a modernist, consider visiting heritage sites like Rosenborg Castle, a well-preserved Renaissance palace in the heart of the city where you’ll find lavishly decorated interiors — from a thunderbox loo surrounded with handpainted Delft tiles to a series of 17th century tapestries. Just across the castle gardens is The David Collection, which boasts European and Islamic art and objects including tiles and textiles. Sarah notes it is small but excellent. It’s also just around the corner from Bleo, a paint showroom that’s worth popping in to. On the modern end of the spectrum, the Design Museum Denmark celebrates iconic Danish furniture design and has an exhibit on textile printing through the end of the year. It also happens to be right around the corner from File Under Pop, a paint, tile, and textile showroom founded by creative director Josephine Akuamoa. Lastly, if you’re happy to take the train or a short Uber, Grundtvig’s Church is a brick masterpiece built in the 1920s and 30s that Sarah says is brilliant and worth the slight detour outside the city.
Depending on which you choose and where you start, try breakfast at Atelier September (think avocado bread and almond pancakes) or Hart Bageri (unmissable baked goods); lunch at Aamanns Deli & Takeaway or Told & Snaps for classic smørrebrød (open-face sandwiches); or Slurp Ramen for quickie noodles in a sleek spot designed by Benediktas Burdulis (which is right next to Bleo). For dinner in this area, consider local favourites like SK12, an artsy speakeasy if you’re in town Wed-Fri, or Locale 21, an Italian spot that tends to be buzzing most nights.
Day 2: City Centre (South)
Before spending the day exploring Copenhagen’s myriad design shops, take in the sculptures, intricate tiled and terrazzo floors, and arresting colour combinations at Thorvaldsens Museum — a 19th century edifice housing the work of Danish sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen (left). A must visit.
From there spend the day scouting the city’s retail scene. Just across the canal from Thorvaldsens, you’ll find four iconic Danish brands: Illums Bolighus (a furniture emporium featuring all the classics); Royal Copenhagen (their alphabet mug makes the loveliest gift); Hay House (the multi-story flagship of this cult favourite, located above street level so be sure not to miss it), and Le Klint (quintessential Danish lighting with hand-folded paper shades). If you’re peckish, grab lunch at Café Europa 1989 and then wander up Kobmagergade, a pedestrian shopping street, to the round tower which is surprisingly beautiful inside. Then detour over to Stilleben for ceramics, glassware and linens (founded in 2002 by graduates of the Danish School of Design). Refuel at Coffee Collective before doubling back to Louise Roe for an exquisite collection of furniture and objects; Stoy’s new Copenhagen outpost if you fancy a serious fashion moment; New Mags, a design-forward bookshop that also carries niche magazines; and/or Klassik, an established dealer of vintage Danish modern furniture since 1991. Whichever you choose to visit, be sure to save time for Tina Seidenfaden Busck's delightful design gallery, The Apartment, in Christianshavn. You’ll find an eclectic mix of antique and vintage Danish furniture and objects, including (if you’re lucky!) midcentury ceramics by Finnish artisan Birger Kaipiainen. Book an appointment later in the day if you can and then have dinner on the waterfront nearby at either Barr or Popl. The former is located in the original Noma space and serves classic Northern European fare (think meatballs and schnitzel). The latter also has ties to Noma and specialises in burgers, beer and wine.
Day 3: Get Out of Town!
About 30 minutes North of the city in Ordrup, you’ll find what Sarah’s calls “the small but perfectly formed house” of Danish architect and furniture designer Finn Juhl (centre), on the grounds of the Ordrupgaard Museum, which focuses on 19th - 20th century Danish and French art. Both spaces are spectacular and worth the excursion out of town (easily accessible by public transport). You can explore the house solo on weekends or book a guided tour in English during the week. The Ordrupgaard is currently hosting an exhibition about potted plants called 'Plant Fever: 'The World in the Window Sill' and Sarah was particularly smitten with Paul Gaugin’s Portrait of a Young Woman in the permanent collection. Not far from here is the Arne Jacobsen-designed Bellevue Theatre which you can also tour. For lunch, try Sommer Canteen, just a few minutes away by car and right on the coast. People swear by the sourdough buns and cardamon rolls. Or head further north instead and visit the Louisiana Museum, which is another 30 mins up the coast by car or 60 mins by train from Ordrupgaard. There’s a cool retrospective on radical Venezuelan-American artist Marisol on view until 22 Feb, as well as a café overlooking Øresund sound. Once you’ve made your way back into Copenhagen, have dinner in the former meatpacking district (Vesterboro) at either Kødbyens Fiskebar or Sanchez. Try Fiskebar if you fancy high-quality, locally caught seafood served in a former butcher’s shop (right). Don’t be fooled by the no-frills venue though — they've been awarded Michelin’s Bib Gourmand (good quality, good value cooking). Or if you want something decidedly un-Nordic, Sanchez is just down the block and renowned for its five-course Mexican tasting menu.
Book a trip now or earmark this guide for next summer, when 3 Days of Design returns to the city in early June. Everything stays open later in the summer but you’ll need more than a few days to combine these sights with the festival.
Photos: Jakob Faurvig, courtesy of Thorvaldsens Museum; Sørensen, courtesy of House of Finn Juhl; Vojtech Tesarek, courtesy of Kødbyens Fiskebar